East of Everest

The year after Hillary successfully climbed Everest, the led a small expedition for the New Zealand Alpine Club to the Barun Valley, located to the east of Everest. It was tradition that on these expeditions the club invited and paid for two British climbers in gratitude for the inclusion of New Zealand climbers in British expeditions. In this case they invited Charles Evans (who was part of the 1953 party) as deputy leader and Dr Michael Ball, who was to be the expedition doctor. Among the New Zealanders were George Lowe (co-author of this book), Norman Hardie, Bill Beaven, Geoff harrow, Jim McFarlane, Colin Todd and Brian Wilkins.

The expedition had two primary goals - the survey and mapping of the valley; and the ascent of one or more of the three peaks of the valley: Baruntse, 23,570ft; Chamlang, 24,012ft; and Ama Dablam, 22,310ft. Unfortunately the expedition was hampered by injury - McFarlane and Wilkins fell into a crevasse, and while Wilkins was able to climb out relatively unharmed, McFarlane spent a night in the crevasse, suffering frostbite, and Hillary broke a number of ribs in a rescue attempt. McFarlane was invalided off the mountain, and although Hillary persisted with the expedition, at higher altitude he had as a result of the broken ribs, respiratory problems, and also left the expedition early.

Had these problems not occurred, the expedition would have made an attempt on Makalu (27,290ft), which would have been a real coup, given the Californian Expedition who were there at the same time had not been successful, although the NZ team considered the Americans were climbing the wrong side.

Nevertheless, the expedition was a success - they surveyed a huge previously unmapped area, and the climbed 19 peaks over 20,000 ft (6096 metres), which is really quite extraordinary. Included in these was Baruntse (7162m) but the other two were not attempted. (Hillary led an expedition in 1961 which became the first to summit Ama Dablam).

At the end of the book, George Lowe and others attended the five day Dumji festival - a sort of Sherpa harvest festival. This, along with the presentation of Coronation Medals to the Sherpa who carried loads on the South Col in the successful Everest climb the previous year. These were from the Queen, presented by Charles Evans on her behalf.

A short book of 70 pages of text, followed by 48 pages of black and white photos, it still covers a lot of ground, and is an interesting read, even for those not into the technicalities of mountaineering. Having said that, I would probably read anything authored by Hillary and/or George Lowe.

A few quotes (Hillary): (P7 & P14)

Very early in our trip it became quite clear the map was completely inaccurate. We found vast glaciers and mountain ranges where nothing was indicated. Enormous valleys drained out through precipitous gorges, but all the map showed were gentle pastures. Obviously the surveyors who produced the map had never been anywhere near the country and had sketched things in with fertile imaginations. But this only increased our enthusiasm to unravel its secrets.– The track meandered pleasantly along beside a stream and then shot abruptly up a very long , steep hill. For the first day out after a lecture tour of America I found this a bit tough, and reached the top in a decidedly overheated condition. I was pleased to note that George Lowe was not going noticeably faster than I was. We now dropped steeply down three or four thousand feet into the next valley. Charles Evans and I were travelling together, and quite unconsciously we started going faster and faster. Soon we were leaping and running down, with first one in the lead and then the other. i got to the bottom first - but I bitterly regretted it for the next few days as I dragged my aching muscles around the countryside. Charles seemed much less affected and I secretly conceded him a moral victory.