Tété-Michel Kpomassie was a teenager in Togo when he discovered a book about Greenland—and knew that he must go there. Working his way north over nearly a decade, Kpomassie finally arrived in the country of his dreams. This brilliantly observed and superbly entertaining record of his adventures among the Inuit is a testament both to the wonderful strangeness of the human species and to the surprising sympathies that bind us all.
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2021 is the year I fell in love with travelogues and this one is the most unique one yet. It's set in a time before I was born and in a place I might never probably reach. It's also raw and does not shy away from describing both the ugliness and beauty of a place in equal measure
I learned so freaking much in this strange travel book, which was unlike any other book I've read. For one, though it's all about Kpomassie's travels to and around Greenland – which is fascinating! – it did NOT make me want to actually GO to Greenland. (It's cold 100% of the time there, and either totally dark or the sun never sets for like 8 months of the year, and also I'm vegetarian and I don't think seal blubber is going to go down easy.) All joking aside, it sounds like it's a very hard place to live. I appreciated the detail Kpomassie included about his adventures: how he learned the Greenlanders' language and was curious about the local traditions. He did his best to fit in and really live like the natives did, including going hunting in the ice, and sleeping in the giant communal bed with the rest of the family he was staying with, and drinking copious amounts of coffee since that's what the locals did when they visited each other.
This was originally published in 1981, and I wonder about some of the traditions and living conditions and how they might have changed with the advent of some newer technology (as well as the general march of time). I mean, I know 40 years isn't that long, but maybe some of the villages have gotten more modern plumbing since then?? And I also wondered what was missing from Kpomassie's experience - for example, the last family he stayed with in the book lived in a one-room earthen turf house, and the daughter of his host was very pregnant. I assumed that she would have to give birth at home, but a throwaway sentence indicates she stayed at the hospital for a week. But where was the hospital! How did she get there! Did the hospital have plumbing!!!
I could have easily read 300 more pages. Entertaining and interesting tale.