Cult of the Sacred Spear

Published in 1972, this is a brief book is made up of two parts - the narrative (about 150 pages), and the appendices (about 25 pages). The author is a London stockbroker, and we learn about his travels to Ethiopia - two very brief visits and a third of several months.

In his opening pages, Macdermot acknowledges that he has “... fallen between two stools...” which makes it sound like a night at the pub where your legs don't keep up with your intake of pints... or is that just me? “This is neither a serious anthropological survey, nor an exciting personal drama embellished... by exaggeration, if not down-right lies. Instead, this story incorporates what I believe to be some valid facts about the Nuer> Not being a qualified anthropologist , I could hardly hope to do more.” This is a refreshing approach, and nicely self-deprecating.

I don't know much about the Ethiopian tribes, other than the Danakil via Wilfred Thesiger's (excellent, but from me unreviewed) book. However Macdermot does a good job of general description and an explanation of their culture and basic way of life. His initial trips a short and merely establish for the author that he wants to return and spend more time there. He saves and plans and hires the same guide he used for the second trip - Thomas, a Yugoslavian man who is living locally and has a good local knowledge. On arrival for his long trip however, Thomas was nowhere to be found, having disappeared off into the bush some months before!

Soon after, Macdermot was approached by what he describes as a “... most unlikely character... His name was Doereding, and to this day I have not forgotten his strange appearance... Doereding came up to us carrying a battered umbrella. He had a round face, permanently bloodshot (I suspected from drink) and an often truculent expression. From time to time this disappeared as he chuckled with delight. In perfect English he introduced himself and said he understood there was someone who wished to visit his people; that he, Doereding, would be willing to escort him.”

The umbrella was to become something of a trademark of Doereding, who was to become Macdermot's interpreter and helper for the duration of his stay.

In some respects it was beneficial that Thomas was not available, as he was more aligned with other tribes not friendly with the Nuer, nor did he speak the language. As it was Macdermot had to forge his way with the village he first approached, but was well received and ended up being given permission to attend and photograph various festivals, rites and the like, as well as just becoming involved in everyday life.

Macdermot writes in chapters loosely themed, but maintains a consistent overall narrative. I found it engaging all the way through, and thought it wise to separate the appendices from this general narrative. The five appendices provide background notes on the war in South Sudan.

4 stars