Fragrant Harbour

As most people know, Fragrant Harbour is a literal translation of Hong Kong, and this book by FD Ommanney provides a perfect snapshot of Hong Kong in the late 1950s.

I though this was a little dry at first, with Ommanney setting out the basics in the first two chapters entitled Two Cities and People which in a precise and orderly fashion describe Hong Kong and its residents. Ommanney was a Head of Department at the Hong Kong University - a non-teaching role - technically a researcher, but is responsible for the maritime and fishery research and development of the country. Throughout the book, but primarily in the chapter aptly named Fishes he describes his forays into prawns, oysters, carp and fishing techniques, resources and over-fishing all of which he was tasked with overseeing.

After the initial chapters, the author starts to share a bit more about his own life in Hong Kong. A chapter called Joe's which describes the hostess bar he spends plenty of time in and another called Ah Yok about his live in maid and her children are separated by Festivals which carefully describes the year in festivals - what the mean, how they are celebrated etc. Others on New Territories which describes the area of Hong Kong excluding Kowloon and Hong Kong Island and The Sea and the Sun fill in yet more of the Hong Kong landscape and culture, then chapters Eating Out, and Bath-House bring us closer to Ommanney's life again, with his personal experiences of these tasks.

A side trip to Macao by ferry at Chinese New Year with his ‘friend' Lisa gives us a glimpse of the monstrosity Macao has become with the Las Vegas style glamour of its casinos and sports cars, from its humble beginnings, even in the 1950s.

Nearing the end now, Alma Mater explains more about the University and the circumstances around the ending of his contract there, which throws some turmoil into his life, that he considered was quite settled. Typhoon describes the typhoon warnings and arrival of Typhoon Mary in June 1960, causing damage to the homes of 10,000 squatters on the hillsides above Kowloon and Victoria.

For me the enjoyment of this book built as it progressed. It appears a very authentic view of Hong Kong at this time - late 1950s. It is the second of this authors books I have read - the first Isle of Cloves about his time in Zanzibar, was a similar format, but less successful. It was published several years before this one, so I am glad to see the improvement.

4 stars