A Small Slice of Autobiography
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I have read a number of Dervla Murphy books, and consider myself a fan, so it wasn't without some trepidation I read this one. This is because, as alluded to in the title, despite planning another of her numerous cycle tours (yes, she has also used beasts of burden), a chance fall on a train in transit to the starting point leaves Murphy unable to walk, let a lone cycle for the most part of her time in Siberia. And so her plans are scratched, and she re-cuts a new plan - one that involved no cycling, and little walking. Which brings me to the concerns I had going in - I really enjoy her tried and tested format for books - a little about the cycling and physical hardship (or animal husbandry in the case of a non-cycle book), a lot about the people and places, a little about the history.
There is no doubt in this book, and this is influenced not only by her lack of movement, but also the location, contains a significant amount more detail on history, and many people and their roles in the history of the area of Siberia that she visits. There are still the personal interactions with all those who she comes into contact along the way, and there is still plenty of hardship with the travel, mostly train related, with a bus journey and some ferry jaunts, etc. But it is reasonable to say the history and background took over - although as noted above, contemporary Russia in general appears to only be explainable by delving into its history, and Siberia is no exception.
So where did she go? He journey was based around the BAM railway (the Baikal–Amur Mainline) which leaves the main Trans-Siberian railway line at Taishet and heads north, above Lake Baikal. Murphy makes a number of side trips in this general area, visiting each of the relevant towns / cities, where inevitably she is sought out by the few English speakers, and treated with what can only be described as overwhelming hospitality. Time after time she is accommodated and overfed, they accompany her to show her places and things, and won't allow her to pay her way.
If anything this book is a testament to the generosity and hospitality of the Siberian people, as time and again they go out of their way to accommodate and assist the non-Russian speaking foreigner, despite the hardship of their lives, and their relative lack of finances.
Probably 3.5 stars, rounded down because so many good books i have read lately have been 4 stars, and for me, this didn't quite make it.